Svante Suominen

11 days • 725 miles • Finland – Åland – Sweden – Denmark – Germany

Ekenäs – Högsåra (Day 1)

We left Helsinki by train and boarded the majestic Anny von Hamburg in Ekenäs. With barely any wind, we motored calmly through the sunny archipelago. The sails stayed packed for now, but the weather was warm and the sea kind. Onboard are me, Ale and Honi, two lovely couples, the captain, two crew members, and an excellent cook. A great little crew for the journey ahead.

We reached Högsåra around 21:15, just as the coppery evening sun washed over the masts and deck. The guest harbor was peaceful, with sheep in the fields and summer in the air. Captain Pokka had booked a wood-fired sauna right on the shore, and it was the perfect way to close the day. A beautiful beginning. This trip is off to a brilliant start.

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Högsåra – Korpoström (Day 2)

It was a rainy day as we travelled from Högsåra to Korpo under a steady drizzle. The wind was still missing, so we cruised smoothly on diesel through the grey but beautiful archipelago.

When we arrived at the Skärgårdscentrum Korpoström, we started with a pint. Other guests at the terrace noticed Anny’s grace and asked about her story. The sauna was electric and just fine, not like the one in Högsåra but it did the job.

Dinner was unforgettable. We were served world-class Janssonin kiusaus. The evening stretched on until just now… It’s 02 something. Captain Pokka led the discussion, guiding us through topics ranging from semantics and philosophy to da Vinci, Kahneman, and our fellow travellers’ life stories. What a night!
Can’t wait for tomorrow’s voyage toward Mariehamn.

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Korpo – Mariehamn (Day 3)

We sailed from Korpo to Mariehamn in stunning weather. The crew started the engines around 07:00 to make sure we’d arrive by evening. We passengers, on the other hand, got to stay in our bunks, catching a few extra hours of sleep and recovering from the night before. A nice, quiet, easy start to a long day at sea.

The light rum haze soon faded as we stretched out on the bow net under the sun. The archipelago passed us slowly, shining waters, rocky shorelines, and beautiful sailboats in the distance. At one point we turned the deck into a casual workout space and even climbed partway up the mast by rope.

As we approached Mariehamn, we learned that Anny’s visit had already made it into local news. Ålands Sjöfart had written about her arrival. The day ended with a harbor sauna and a round of Stallhagen beers in the cozy island town evening. Tomorrow we take a Land Cruiser and explore the island properly.

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Åland Roadtrip (Day 4)

Today Anny stayed moored while we traded sails for wheels. Thanks to Captain Pokka’s friend, we had the pleasure of cruising around Åland in a wonderfully rugged old Land Cruiser “Röde Orm”. Captain himself took the wheel and served as our driver and guide.

We headed north to Havsvidden, where the dramatic seascapes left us speechless. After a short walk over the cliffs and maybe hundreds of photos, we continued to the place of the Land Cruiser’s owner, located next to the Viking village in Kvarnbo. There, we got a look inside a traditional-style motorcycle workshop (reminded me of the Zen and Motorcycle Maintenance classic) and a beautifully restored guesthouse that just happened to host a local artist’s sea-themed art exhibition.

On the way back we stopped by a potato chip factory and at Uffe på berget, high above the trees. Evening was for sauna, showers, and laundry. Tomorrow’s departure depends on the conditions. Captain just told us that we might not set off until the afternoon.

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Mariehamn – Sandhamn (Day 5–6)

We had originally planned to set sail in the morning, but strong and gusty winds gave us the perfect excuse to enjoy one more day in Mariehamn. We made the most of it with a visit to the Åland Museum and later refueling with pizza at Adlon.

In the early evening, Captain Pokka and the crew gave us a crash course in gaff rig and headsail handling. Around 19:30 we cast off and raised sail outside Mariehamn. A rust-red moon rose behind us, and the sun joined from the horizon behind Anny. Though we were tired, the hours passed quickly in the cold, magical northern night. I crawled into my bunk around 07:00, just after the sails came down. We reached Sandhamn at 09:00. By 10:00 I was up and ready to explore.

After our night sail, we took it slow in Sandhamn. The harbor was alive with yachts and party energy. Anny looked perfectly at home. We visited the idyllic wooden village and pine woods. A shuttle boat took us to a sauna island. After the dip, we returned for live music and dancing late into the night. We also gained two new passengers.

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Sandhamn – Öland (Day 7)

This morning we left behind lively Sandhamn and set course for Öland. The wind was against us, so we traveled by engine. Some of us joined the rotating watch shifts. I got a turn at the helm for a four-hour stretch on a 210-degree course toward Öland’s northern tip.

We even fit in a short deck workout. Now I’m wrapped in a Porvoo-mended wool sweater, enjoying a Sandels and a captain-approved book. Life is good.

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Kalmar (Day 8)

After reaching the northern tip of Öland, our night watch began as planned. But during the dog watch, Captain Pokka made a new call: stop in Kalmar to refill our potato stores.

I briefly woke when the engine turned off and noticed we were docking. I went back to sleep and woke to the good news that we’d stay in Kalmar. At breakfast, our cook told me his mother once recommended Kalmar Castle — so Honi and I went. The castle, where the Kalmar Union was sealed one day short of 628 years ago, was stunning.

In the afternoon we enjoyed terraces and Anny’s deck. Captain Pokka let us place our Käpylä Maanantai logo sticker on Anny’s bow. Locals noticed. So will Kiel.

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Kalmar – Return to Kalmar (Day 9–10)

Today was a true emotional rollercoaster. We hoisted nearly the full set of sails: mesaani (mizzen), isopurje (mainsail), kuunari (schooner), fokka (fore staysail), etuklyyvari (jib), and takaklyyvari (outer jib). After lunch, something magical happened: Hoburgin Ukko boarded Anny with his daughter and crew, led by a maritime pilot. He visits all ships passing Gotland’s southern tip.

Anny’s crew was symbolically forced to cleanse themselves of the ugly smell of land. I took part in the performance, having received the Hoburg rite during my military service in the navy 2005–06.

But then everything changed. Captain Pokka reviewed the wind scenarios and decided to turn back. No Kiel this time. For some, including me, it meant the journey would end in Kalmar. I’ll stay a few days longer and enjoy harbor life before hopping on a train.

This has been a breathtaking journey. I’m so grateful I met Juha Pokka and joined this crew. Sailing aboard Anny von Hamburg with this cast of wild and wonderful people was something truly special.
Over and out.
– Svante